Monday, May 25, 2009

Kurtis Heritage Hedonism

Creativity knows no boundaries. It is especially true in the fashion world. Where experiments with the traditional patterns is creating impulsion these days. The Kurtis meteoric rise to the top of the fashion world is indeed beguiling. Their exceptional designs and aesthetic grace make them ongoing on and off the catwalks.

Available in different range and styles they can entice you to push the limits. They have originated on the lines of its first cousin Kurta. They are actually the shorter version of Kurtas. Kurtis are also termed as woman's tunic. Combining the fine culture, and the synthesis of tradition these Kurtis are the signature of nomadic royalty. They are the interpretation of the India's royal heritage that reflects the quirky nature of the contemporary fashion. They mark the fashion statement for the for the top notch business women to the typical middle class girl.

Today Kurtis have made a way into the heart of the uber chic designers and and has spread infectiously into the people's wardrobe. From the bylanes of Rishikesh, it has reached to the boutiques of world's most renowned designers. From the spangly mirror work, stylish leopard print, to the block printed handloom variety, Kurtis have been embroidered with every possible print. And have been sported by celebrities like Zeenat Aman, Preety Zinta and Poonam Dhilon.

They are trendy are are available in all sort of sizes and range. They are worn by people irrespective of age. Kurtis goes well with the salwar, trousers, jeans or churidars. They are made fabrics ranging from viscose georgette, polyester, georgette, pure crepe silk, crepe blends, silk, satin, and cotton etc. And now this great elan of Kurtis is ready to capture the hearts of the western world with elegant Indian Designs. It is creating waves and is in haute couture since last three years. It enhances the dignity of the elderly women, the middle aged girls wears it with self assurance and poise and of course the youngsters for that very own style statement that carry an air of beauty self personified.

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Tribal Embroidery


The tribal groups in India has its own share of embroideries influenced by many cultures depicting the various themes. The Banjara embroidery is one of the most colorful and engaging craft work. The tribal women are working very hard to keep the legend of the Banjara embroidery alive by forwarding it to the coming generations.

The Banjara embroidery is the class by itself with the wide range and varied style and composition. Banjara embroidery mainly features vibrant colors. The motifs on their clothes are often embellished by the laces, beads, colorful threads and intricate mirror work. Their designs are free of complexity of thoughts and are need not to be necessary symmetrical. They are also known for the soft lace work that is taken up mainly by the women trained at home.

The patterns of the Banjara embroidery is oftenly represented by the square or rectangle form. Floral designs, animals or human figures are rarely created by them. Numerous embroidery techniques can be observed in Banjara embroideries such as the cross stitch, chain stitch, stem stitch, couching, appliqué, mirrors, kashida and quit stitch. They often decorate their fabrics with the buttons, leads, glass beads, coins, woolen tassels, cowry shells and threads.

Apart from the traditional skirts, blouses and men jacket the other products made by the Banjara embroidery includes purse, bags, cushion, pillow covers, quilts and wall hangings. Although with the invasion of the machines and technologies, the artwork is modified and the artisans are losing their age old vocation.

Rabri Embroidery

Rabri embroidery is the most colorful and most beautiful embroidery in the whole subcontinent. Rabri is the traditional art preciously saved by the tribal groups in Gujarat and Rajasthan, who brought this art from Sindh, Baluchistan and Far East when they came to settled here.

The Rabri embroidery is very famous for the eye catching motifs and beautiful use of the large pieces of mirrors. Originally, the pieces of mica were used instead of mirrors. They use the combination of different colors in order to make the embroidery motifs more beautiful. The sparling stitch is used to beautify ghaghro (skirt), kanchali (blouse), ludis (veil), groom's kediyan (skirt), children cradle cloth, auspicious torans as well as dowry bags, supari bags, purses etc.

The motifs that are drawn are mainly are that of the animals, emblems, folklores, flora etc. The stitches are mainly done for the for embellishments rather than full fledged designs with thread. It needs a lot of hand work and the needle work.

There is the irrational belief behind the use of the mirrors in the region, according to them mirrors protect their children from evil spirits inhabiting their world. The name Rabri is synonymous to the mythology, beliefs and cultural life of the people.

Rabri Embroidery with the intricate mirror and thread work is in demand all over the world. From the small rural areas of the Rajasthan it has spread infectiously into people's wardrobe. The tribes who creates the the embroidery tell their story through its multi-hued threads and tiny embroidery mirrors.

Pashmina Shawl

Graceful colors, Chinese Red, Golden Yellow, lush green, creamy white – all are the beautiful colors which you will find in Pashmina. Pashmina, the grace of Kashmir is a kind of wool which is very warm and light in nature. Worn with grace in a number of ways, the kashidakari makes it more beautiful. The splendor of Pashmina lies in the way its worn.


Most of the time you heard about Pashmina, it must have been the Pashmina Shawls. Soft, light like a feather and the coming in beautiful colors, Pashmina Shawls are most spoken of and sought after.
Pashmina is a Urdu and Persian word which became famous after its shawls. Originally the shawls were handwoven and embroided in Kashmir.

The small threads of Pashmina is called as pashm or pashmina. The beginning of Pashmina thread making began in 3rd Century BC. However, professionally the fabric came into existence in the 15th Century. It was Zayn- ul-Abidin, the then ruler of Kashmir who introduced weavers from Central Asia, to the production of Pahmina Shawls into marketing.

For the production of Pashmina, the Pahmina Goat (breed of Goat), is reared in flocks. The goats shed its winter coat every spring. Per goat 3 – 8 ounces of fiber is shed, which is then collected and spun into threads. Its then woven into shawls on which then embroidery is done. For the colors, natural colors coming from flowers and trees are used. These are fast colors and last till the life of the Shawl.

Pashmina Shawls usually come in the size 36 * 80. The smaller size ones are called stols which are used to cover head or simply as style icon. The pure Pashmina is quite costly coming in the range of INR 7000 to INR 50,000, depending upon the thread and the embroidery. The thinner the tread and the intricate the embroidery, the costlier the Pashmina Shawl.


Pashmina Shawls also come in mix of Pashmina and Silk thread. Usually the mix is in the ratio 70 : 30. A Pashmina Shawl can cost as low as $50. But beware of the artificial ones which have popped up in the market. These are usually the viscose ones which come as low as INR 1000. Do not buy these as Pahmina is costly can cannot be sold at such low prices. So next time you go to buy Pashmina, make sure you are buying the real one and not the artificial ones ! Happy Shopping !

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Indian Miniature Paintings



The beauty of Indian Miniature Paintings is spread and known across the globe. This traditional painting form of India dated back to 6th - 7th century when Kashmiri paintings also became popular. Miniature paintings are small sparkling paintings colored with vegetable colors. The artisans of Indian Miniature Paintings dexterously makes a canvass a beautiful riot of colors with varied theme. The intricate work involved while making a Miniature Painting is remarkable.

The paintings are small comparatively and so called “Miniature Paintings”. 11th and 12th century took the tradition of Miniature Paintings to its boom. In those times, people started making the manuscripts for storing the knowledge on palm leaves. Later, Mughals helped in the flourishing of this tradition in India. The miniature paintings got their inspiration from epics and folk themes. Different cultures influenced the art of paintings and so it is an amalgamation of varied cultures.


The cultural heritage of India can proudly boast of Miniature Paintings. Appreciate the beauty of colors that render a special hue to the miniature paintings in the manuscripts of Buddhists, Jains, Mughal and most importantly Rajput texts. You will find the miniature paintings embellished with minerals and vegetable colors. The art of making the desired color is not tedious. It requires great skill and time.


These paintings have seen patronage of Muslims rulers in Deccan and Rajput rulers in Rajasthan. The motifs of these paintings are basically scenes of hunting, court scenes, flowers and animals. The Indian state of Rajasthan has been a prominent one as far as Miniature Painting is concerned. In Rajasthan alone one can find various schools of the paintings like in the areas of Jodhpur, Jaipur, Kangra and Mewar. There are some other schools of this tradition also like paintings from Malwa, Bundhelkhand Raghogarh, Bani Thani.


You can differentiate between a Mughal and a Rajput Miniature Painting by observing the use of colors. The Rajput school uses vibrant colors more to create a theme in abstract and Mughals use moderate colors for depth and shadow. The artisans gently strokes the brush on the canvas, thus, it requires great level of expertise. A specimen of Miniature Painting is must have for the connoisseurs.


Swati


Thursday, December 25, 2008

Blue Pottery in India


The reputation of Indian arts largely rests on the exquisiteness of these arts. Among many traditional arts of India, Jaipur and Delhi Blue Pottery has a vital significance. The artisans mold and paint their imagination into beautiful blue pots. The pottery tradition is unique and prominent in India. The use of Persian blue dye lends the attractive blue color. The pottery is also glazed and high fired, to make it durable. You will find that blue pottery is decorated with animal and bird motifs. This impermeable pottery is generally used for decorative purposes. The range of items is primarily decorative such as ashtrays, vases, coasters, small bowls and boxes for trinkets.

The Charm of Blue Pottery

The foreign art of using blue glaze made from fuller's earth was discovered by Mongol artisans. These Mongol artisans blended Chinese glazing technology with Persian decorative arts. In 14th century this art traversed to India with early Muslim swayers. In Central Asia it was employed to make tiles to decorate mosques, tombs and palaces.

Blue Pottery in India


The legacy of artisans and craftsmen from the Mughal period, who settled down in the village of Khurja (100 km from Delhi), resulted in blue pottery. The tradition was passed down from one generation to the other. Delhi stoneware pottery is the one marked with vibrant blue surface and Mughal motifs in blue color along with other colors on the base of white color.

The Mughal emperors started using blue pottery in India vis-a-vis the edifices in Samarkand. The craftsmen from Kashmir adopted this art and it gained the status as an accessory of architecture. Gradually it traveled to Delhi and in 17th century it was introduced in Jaipur. The Rajas of Jaipur were extremely fond of blue glazed wares. Visit the Rambagh Palace to get the clue and see the fountain with splendid blue tiles. Even the construction of Jaipur city had been with blue tiles but they mysteriously disappeared soon after that.

Contemporary Blue Pottery

Today, Blue Pottery of Delhi is on the verge of extinction. With a handful of craftsmen left, the future of the craft seems oblique. However institutes like Delhi Blue Pottery Trust (founded in 1991), which runs a pottery school in the basement of the Delhi Blue Apartments. The trust encourages the development and promotion of studio pottery in India.


Swati

Friday, December 5, 2008

Madhubani Paintings - A Hallmark of Mithila Women's Exquistness


Women folks of Mithila in Bihar have been painting their walls with intricate 'tantric' and mythological motifs for centuries. Gradually these paintings came into notice and termed Madhubani Paintings. These paintings manifest the Culture of India, the rich tradition of Art and Craft of India besides representing Art and Craft of Bihar. These paintings were initially done on the mud walls but with changing times they are now done on cloth, hand made paper and canvas.

The origin of Madhubani paintings is not much known, thereby it is little obscure to trace back its origination. The painting derives its name from hundreds of beehives that once dotted the neighboring villages of Jitwapur. The style and nuances of Madhubani paintings remain the same even after centuries. The legacy of this art is passed on from one generation to other. You will be amused to see that the motifs of Madhubani paintings can be found on coins, seals and urns that belonged to the Indus Valley Civilization.

The central themes of most Madhubanu paintings are Love and Fertility. The theme of Fertility dominates the Kohbar tradition. Fertility is depicted through animals, flowers, birds and celestial bodies like parrot, elephants, fish, turtles, lotus, sun, moon bamboo tree. Swaymwar of Lord Ram and Goddess Sita or Lord Krishna and Goddess Radha in amorous pose are prominent themes of Madhubani Paintings. These deities are in the center of the mural or canvas accompanied by their consorts. The floral motifs make the background.

The dexterity of the craftswomen can be seen by the fact that they directly paint with a brush without any preliminary sketch. Primarily the natural colors were obtained from extracts of plants like Heena leaves, flowers, bougainvillea and neem. These were then admixed with resin from banana leaves and ordinary gum to make a painting medium. The vibrant Madhubani Paintings mostly deploy colors like orange, crimson red, pink, black, green, yellow and blue. These paintings were not done by everyone in the beginning. Only Brahmins and Kayasthas did it with Brahmins rendering them bright hues and Kayasthas opted for muted tones. The Harijan style is bit different whereby they coat the wall or canvas by cow dung.

Go to Bihar, walk through the lanes of villages and you will see the painted mud walls. This mesmerizing art will showcase the craftsmanship of the artists. No wonder if you buy many paintings from these artists as a souvenir.

Swati